| Some background
information first. The trail Pete Watson and I were attempting is
90 something kilometres. The start is at Lilloet Lake, going up the
washed out access road to Lizzy Lakes (12km or so with 3000+ ft of
elevation gain). Next, we'd enter the forest and start climbing to
the next couple lakes. 10km takes us to a new ridgeline (again, a
bit over 3000 ft of gain) then we would drop into a saddle between
two valleys, ascend the next mountain and drop into the basin around
Tundra Lake (5km), over another ridgeline to Stein Lake (5km) and
into the Stein Valley. Once in the valley, it's 60km or so along the
valley bottom to finish up in Lytton. It's never been done in less
than 24 hours, so our goal was to finish the trek in less than that
one day period. This meant we were going completely bare bones in
terms of gear and supplies. Light and fast - no tent/sleeping bags,
just some garbage bags in case we became stuck for a night out there.
We got to the
start around 9:30pm, had some food, then attempted to sleep beside
the car for 3 hours. Up just
after 1am, we were on the trail at quarter to 2am. Making good time
to Lizzy Lakes, we had to take some side trails to bypass the washouts
on the overgrown access road. Once entering the forest, it started
raining and we cooled down substantially. After another hour or
so, we were soaked and frozen. We had to stop at a shelter and build
a fire for a short while to warm up. The fire took much longer to
build than we'd hoped (very wet wood) and in the time it took to
get the fire going, our body heat dropped completely and all we
could think of was how miserable we were at this point. Eventually,
we got the fire going and warmed up some while waiting for the rain
to pass (and waiting for better visibility). We put our gear back
on and headed back out.
It was clear
by this time and the sun was starting to light the sky. Entering
the Alpine, we'd been out on
the trail for 4 hours by now and were still rather cold and wet.
A beautiful sunrise was behind us as we approached Arrowhead Lake.
Here, we refilled our water, then started the next climb.
Midway through
this climb, we started hitting frost on the ground. A little further,
there was fresh snow. By the top of this climb, we were at a huge
boulderfield which led onto a scree slope. Both of these were covered
in ice. A biting wind had blown the clouds in and we lost almost
all visibility. Climbing over the boulders was treacherous and time
consuming. You place your foot on one boulder to find it covered
with a sheet of ice as your foot rockets out from under you and
you desperately cling to the edge of the rock to stay on top. Battered
and bruised, we were quickly losing valuable time as we tried to
find our route in the snow and clouds. Eventually we managed to
claw our way up a semifrozen streambed to the top of the ridgeline
where we could regain our route. At the end of the ridgeline, looking
down 600ft drops to either side and across the saddle we needed
to cross, there was the mountain we needed to get over.
We waited until
one batch of clouds had passed to ascess the situation. The mountain
across from us was completely covered in snow. At least a foot -
we could not get over that with our gear. We'd have to skirt around
the mountain and drop down to the lake beside it. This would mean
crossing another icy boulder field. It would work, but would slow
us down significantly. We'd then need to cross another pass which
was a similar elevation to the mountain in front of us, so would
like have to deal with the same amount of snow. It wasn't looking
good. It was only another 10km or so to the Stein Valley. Once there,
we'd be fine. We wouldn't be able to make the 24h mark, but it would
be warm enough to sleep in the valley floor. With a fire and huddled
in the garbage bags, we could probably manage the temperatures over
night. But if we lost visibility again or had problems in the boulder
fields or snow, we'd have to spend a night in the alpine. And the
subzero temperatures were not survivable with our current supplies.
We made the
tough decision to turn back.
Turning back,
we made our way back along the ridgeline and once we got out of
the snow and ice started running back down the mountain. A few hours
of intense downhill trail running later, we were back at the car.
We'd covered around 45km and our altimeter showed 7400ft of elevation
gain during the day. So still quite an epic trip. We drove back
to our other car, parked on the Lytton end, but were far too exhausted
to drive back to Vancouver that night. Instead we picked up pizza
and beer, camping out for the evening.
The
elements got the best of us, but it's not over. We'll be back next
year (slightly earlier in the season) and challenge the mountains
once again.
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